Friday, May 4, 2007

Temuco, Southern Chile.

MAPUCHE:
Mapu= land
Che= people
People of the land. Pictures of the land and the people we met in Temuco. 5 days that touched, affected and changed all of us.


Temuco- google earth yourself to find yourself at almost the end of the earth. Full of farmland, cows in the streets, yarn, yerba mate, pigs!


The neighbors putting their wool out to dry after being washed. They knead it between their fingers to make the yarn- a traditional Mapuche woman job- our house was full of pictures of the grandma at different stages of her life knitting. It sort of became the family joke "Otra vez tejando!"
Mauru, my 2 year old host brother. I spent most of my time with the Mapuche building block towers only to have them knocked down within seconds by Mauru!


A neighbor gathering wood for the wooden stove in the kitchen. I admit I stole this photo from Kira- pretty good, huh? With the Mapuche you sometimes feel like you've somehow happened upon a National Geographic special- privy to share a little bit of their lives and the hours start taking on a whole new meaning.


Me, Mauru, and our host mom in the front yard. Note the jacket and scarf- I swear we all came in bundled in all the clothes we brought, while the Mapuche walked around in sweaters!


Side view of the house and one of the 4 dogs... this window was more popular than the TV. They loved to sit in front of the window and watch everyone who passed by- there are about 80 families in the community and everyone knows and is (in some way) related to everyone.


Mauru and Guante, the white building in the background is the central school house. Its a 3 room school house with a soccer field and a dining hall. All of the kids are Mapuche and are beginning to learn about their traditions- dances, songs, language that is being lost with each new generation. The kids taught us Mapuche games, danced, and let us sit in on their classes.

Well... the inner vegetarian in me bit her lip and took this picture since they asked for it. Never have I been so close to my bbq ribs. They killed the biggest pig for us to eat as a barbeque (asado) on our last day. It was a kind gesture and one where you eat the meet excaiming QUIE RICO after every bite. My family got to keep the head because we hosted the bbq. The head sat in the kitchen for at least 2 days. Also, the uncle came over and was served one half of a pig face... with teeth and the hairy snout still intact. To Mapuche, land is everything and everything that mother Earth provides they use- it wasnt barbaric at all, and for the first time I saw a house funcioning pretty self-sufficiently. Still, watching the uncle cut off pig skin and rest his bread on the open jaw- I couldnt help wondering where the other half of the pig face was...

After the dance, our group and our new friends. I have to thank them for their tag games as it was some of the only exercise we've all had in the last 2 months. Needless to say, we usually lost. But when it was our turn, they got some good Duck duck goose and frisbee time in.


In case you forgot what I look like.

The most beautiful kid in the world. Thanks dad for teaching my some card tricks.. the 3 robbers (Jacks) was a big hit.


Our grandpa, Francisco- one of the community leaders who asked me about Lincoln, Kennedy, had a picture of Hilary Clinton and counted off proudly on his fingers 1-10 in English. I can also thank him for teaching me some of the only words I know in Mapundungun.
kofke- bread. mely- four. mari mari- hello, good morning/night.

My new best friend.


Our parents- some of the two quiestest, kindest and most sincere people I've ever met. Also, the Mapuche have great laughs.

The school. The pride of the community.
Rene, our director (on the right) and Juan Antonio the Mapuche director. Two amazing people with a capability to teach and inspire and give you opportunities like this photo- to not take life too seriously.
Leaving. When you leave somewhere, they hold your hand with their two hands. They look you in the eye and wish you the best of luck in life. And you just know that they mean it. I wasnt really ready to leave, but maybe I'll find my way back there someday.

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